Part of the fun of being in Stockholm is visiting all of the islands. For dinner we headed to the Gamla Stan, Old Town, for dinner at Pubologi. This is again a recommendation from a colleague who lives in Stockholm and she said the menu is always changing and super creative. We weren’t disappointed. I loved the seasonal ingredients and innovative combinations! I especially enjoyed dessert – I’d never eaten pine needles before!
Walking through Kungsträdgården, a park in the city center
Bakfickan is one of the restaurants located in Stockholm’s Opera House. Earlier this year we dined at the Michelin-starred Operakällaren, and were excited to go to the more casual Bakfickan for some typical Swedish dishes.
The space is very small – only 28 seats – and very cozy. I ordered my go-to dishes: Toast Skagen and Meatballs with all of the typical fixings (brown gravy, potato puree, lingon berries, and pickled cucumber slices). The meatballs were soooo delicious! Definitely the best I’ve had in Stockholm.
Babette was recommended to us by a colleague for dinner. She had me at cozy little winebar, but peaked my interest even more when she told me they have a small but interesting and constantly changing menu and great pizza!
I did a bit more research and read that this is a chef’s favorite – that in the weekend you may find some of Stockholm’s most famous chefs enjoying a glass of wine! Babette was opened by three sommeliers and one chef, so it makes sense that wine is at the forefront of the menu. From Stockholm Food Stories, “Notably, the restaurant opened up in an old pizza joint and they have kept the pizza oven as the main cooking item – which of course adds an extra layer of complexity for Olle T Celltom when cooking the food. The pizzas are tasty, made with really good produce and innovative thinking when it comes to how to combine the quite classic Italian toppings on the pizza, and especially it is impressive to be abele to produce the pizzas in a standard pizza oven. One would have guessed that they like so many places would have flown in a oven from Naples, but no. This is your oven from the pizzeria on the corner.” So of course we had to split a pizza!
If you’re walking around Stockholm you can’t help but notice all of the hot dog stands. So this trip we decided to do a hot dog tour. Luckily there are so many lists and the one I found must useful was the Culture Trip’s 10 Top Hot Dog Stands in Stockholm. I spent the morning plotting our route for the afternoon. What a great way to see the city – walking to each hot dog destination! One thing I didn’t anticipate – getting full after only two stands! So the rest of the route will have to be carried out next visit…
A visit to Stockholm isn’t complete without having fika, or a coffee and sweets moment! This time we visited Vete-Katten, a Stockholm institution for coffee and princess cake. I tried princess cake for the first time in February and had to have it again this visit. Vete-Katen’s “royal cake is baked according to our own secret method, which gives it its unique taste and creaminess. The sponge bases are layered with freshly-prepared custard and raspberries, enveloped by a thick quilt of whipped cream, all encased in green marzipan powdered with icing sugar.” It was soooo delicious! The coffee is also excellent!
We celebrated Valentine’s Day early at Operakällaren, a one star Michelin restaurant in Stockholm’s center. Operakällaren is the city’s oldest restaurant, dating back to 1787 when the restaurant was situated under Gustav III’s opera house. Operakällaren is still linked with the royal family – Stefano Catenacci, the Chef de Cuisines, is responsible for all catering to the Royal Castle. We loved our meal and enjoyed the whole experience – delicious food and a great wait staff! Koen and I were also surprised that Stefano Catenacci came to our table personally to press our duck and even let me try! He also mentioned I’m the first guest to ask!
I know in November I already posted photos of Riche, but I had to come back! I needed to have their toast skagen again!
To quote the Huffington Post, Toast Skagenis essentially a shrimp toast, but there is one mythical ingredient that sets it apart from any other shrimp toast. Kalix Vendace Roe. This Swedish version of Russian or Iranian caviar is orange, light in taste, subtle and not as pushy as its eastern cousins. It’s often served together with butter fried blinis or toast, some sour cream and very finely chopped red onions – as the star of the show. But in the Toast Skagen, it will have to settle with being the jewel in the crown. An orange colored precious gem, placed on top of this culinary treasure.
In general, Koen and I really love renting apartments if we’re on holiday. One of our favorite things to do, normally to relax toward the end, is to visit a local market to prepare dinner at our apartment. It gives us an opportunity to try local food and chill at the apartment for an easy evening. Markets are also a great opportunity to delve into the real food culture of a city. Koen is the best at discovering what we need to eat – asking what they miss most when out of the country, what does their family eat at Christmas and other big holidays. Like this we’re sure not to miss anything!
We were curious to try the restaurant Esperanto (now permanently closed) for dinner while in Stockholm. Esperanto is a one Michelin star restaurant that specializes in a fusion of Japanese and Swedish cuisine.
In the winter, the days are short in Stockholm. I absolutely love it. The city lights up with a warm glow and you can’t help but feel cozy. After visiting the Vasa Museum, we headed to the Grand Hotel to eat at Matbaren by the chef Mathias Dahlgren. Matbaren was recommened by a Swedish colleague of mine. She told me it’s her favorite restaurant, so of course we had to try it!